RETINOL, RETINOL DERIVATIVES, AND RETINOIDS: UNDERSTANDING THE DIFFERENCES
Retinoids are a broad category of vitamin A derivatives, with retinoic acid (tretinoin) being the most potent and biologically active form. Due to its high efficacy and potential for irritation, retinoic acid is available only by prescription and should be used under medical supervision.
In cosmetic formulations, over-the-counter products typically contain precursor forms of retinoic acid, such as retinol or retinal (retinaldehyde). These compounds are converted into retinoic acid upon application, offering similar skin benefits in a gentler, more tolerable way.
For even milder effects, retinol derivatives (also called retinol esters), including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, and retinyl linoleate, are used. These derivatives must first be converted into retinol before transforming into retinoic acid, making them well-suited for sensitive skin types that require a gradual introduction to vitamin A.
EFFICACY AND TIMEFRAME OF RETINOL
The time required to see visible improvements with retinol varies depending on skin type, product formulation, and concentration. Since retinol works at a deeper cellular level, it requires eight to twelve weeks to deliver its full effects. However, this patience is rewarded with profound changes in skin texture, firmness, and clarity.
WHY RETINOL IS NOW LIMITED TO A MAXIMUM CONCENTRATION OF 0.3%
A new EU regulation now restricts the concentration of retinol in cosmetic products to a maximum of 0.3%. This adjustment was made to ensure universal skin tolerance and minimize potential side effects such as dryness, redness, or peeling, particularly with improper use.
However, this does not mean that higher concentrations like 0.5% or 1.0% were unsafe. These products were both effective and well-tolerated when used correctly. The new regulation simply ensures that higher retinol concentrations remain exclusive to medical-grade formulations to prevent misuse and potential irritation.
For customers who previously used higher concentrations, there is no need for concern. By slightly increasing the amount of Retinol Serum 0.3, you can achieve comparable results. This allows you to continue benefiting from retinol’s powerful anti-aging and skin-renewing properties without compromising on safety or efficacy.
THE FUTURE: INNOVATIVE FORMULATIONS FOR ENHANCED RESULTS
At DOC.BERGER | EFFECT, we are actively developing next-generation skincare solutions that incorporate retinol-like ingredients. These cutting-edge alternatives provide the same benefits as retinol—boosting cell renewal, refining skin texture, and minimizing fine lines and pigmentation—but with enhanced skin tolerance, making them suitable for even the most delicate complexions.
For those seeking advanced skincare innovations, exciting new products will be launching soon.
Our commitment remains the same: delivering visible results with the highest standards of skin compatibility so your skin can look and feel its absolute best.